Mark Read

Image by Mark Read

Photo © Mark Read

After trudging through the September night in blizzard conditions, with 50 centimeters of fresh snow building on the glacier, the morning dawned bright and calm. Pigeon Spire gleamed with fresh snow, rime and ice in the sun, and we couldn’t resist exploring the west ridge. Scraping our way up slabs, and foraging blindly for placements, we happily advanced to near the first summit before turning back;  fresh respect in our minds for why this route has yet to see a winter ascent.