Jon Walsh

Image by Jon Walsh

Photo © Jon Walsh

In this image, Ines Papert is seen on a highly recommended one pitch variation, about three quarters of the way up the ultra classic Beckey-Chouinard— the Bugaboos’ most famous route. The original route takes a chimney just out of view to climbers right, but a 50 meter pitch of perfect finger cracks going directly to the same place is arguably the best climbing on the entire route! I had a torn rotator cuff at the time and basically one-armed my way up the route just to get that photo. My only lead that day was the first 30 meters off that belay, just to get in position for that shot, which I had wanted to get for some time. I think that was my sixth time up that route.

 

Image by Jon Walsh

Photo © Jon Walsh

One day in August, Ines Papert, Chris Brazeau, and I climbed the route “Power of Lard” which ascends the far right side of the east face of Snowpatch Spire.” The pol ends about halfway up the cliff, but we thought if we hauled some camping gear up to a nice ledge at the top of the sixth pitch, we could investigate some of the other crack systems that might extend this route to the summit. As it turned out, we weren’t successful in that goal, but the trip did produce some great photos.  One of the luxury items we hauled up was a stovetop espresso maker, and in this shot, Ines is filling Chris’ cup. Good beans, good friends, and good rock—hard to ask for much more than that!

Jon Walsh

Photo © Jon Walsh

While camping and climbing in East Creek Basin, I set up my camera just after dark, pointing north at Minaret tower in the foreground and the South Howser Tower rising behind it. I crawled into my tent and planned to return to it in one hour, but I must have dozed off, as it was about three hours before I got back to it to close the shutter. The shot worked out though—a lucky break, I guess.